The first stage in Ogliastra is of medium length and has a few hairpin bends. We visit an ancient nuraghe.
A phase to avoid in the height of summer.
Shortly after the nuraghe, we are in for a rather steep and slippery descent through the forest, so be careful.
On the way you will come across some barbed wire or iron gates that you will have to open (and always close!).
We leave Cuile is Arrantas and proceed nimbly on a carriage road up and down for a few kilometres; we then descend just until we cross the dry bed of the Riu 'e Cea and ascend (about 250 m height difference) at a constant gradient until we join an asphalt road (near a fountain) and reach the provincial road, which we cross. We take the path immediately to the right, climbing over a fence with a ladder and joining a path; shortly afterwards we come to a clearing from which we access an ancient nuraghe.
Immediately afterwards, following the signs for a cave, we begin a steep descent (about 100 m drop) through dense woodland (during which we pass the entrance to a cave), until we ford a small stream and begin the ascent (about 100 m height difference, with a few ups and downs) that leads us to a new dirt road; after a couple of km, we switch to asphalt and continue on to Perdasdefogu.
Perdasdefogu is a municipality in the province of Nuoro whose name means “Fire Stone” in the Sardinian language. The origin of this place name is unclear: some claim that it is related to the limestones used in the kilns to produce lime.
Legend has it that the village was originally on the coast and was moved inland after repeated Saracen raids.
Perdasdefogu is also known for being the site of the largest military range in Europe: the Salto Quirra experimental range.
It was established in 1956 and was an important centre for the development of Italian space activities in the 1960s. The range was a real driving force for the town’s development: the small, heavily depopulated village has since seen a steady influx of military personnel, many of whom have become part of the community.
But the events surrounding the range have sparked numerous controversies related to the alleged use of depleted uranium shells and the destruction of an area with many caves that are home to rare species such as the Sardinian newt, the imperial geotriton and the Sardinian discoglossum.
The municipality of Perdasdefogu is located in Ogliastra, a historical-geographical region that forms one of the seven Barbagie, more precisely Barbagia Trigonia.
It has been inhabited since the Neolithic period and contains numerous remains of the Nuragic civilisation (Domus de Janas, Tombe dei Giganti and many nuraghi) as well as several bronze statues that indicate a rich cultural activity. Ogliastra is also known for being one of the five areas in the world (also known as the Blue Zone) with the highest life expectancy of its inhabitants. The longest-living family in the world lives in the village: in 2014, eight siblings had a combined age of 828 years!
In the centre of Perdasdefogu is the Museo naturalistico CEAS (Centro Educazione Ambientale alla Sostenibilità) "Is Tapparas", where elements of the speleological heritage of the region can be admired together with a reconstruction of the history of local speleology. The museum was founded in the late 1990s by the Gruppo Grotte Ogliastra and over time has been able to tell the story of the region's natural beauty.
For more information on opening hours and tickets, visit LINK.
Among the many caves you can visit in Ogliastra, one stands out in the Tremina Valley, just a few kilometres from the town of Perdasdefogu: the Grotta di Tueri.
The cave rises near Monte S'orku nuraghe of Tueri, a complex made up of three structures: a tower with a tholos roof (false dome) enriched by two additional bodies. The cave, about ten metres long, housed a nuraghe necropolis and contained up to forty skeletons. A few years ago, however, it was plundered by unscrupulous grave robbers who stole numerous skeletons to sell on the black market.
Shaped like radiant suns, Coccoi Prena (Coccois in the plural) are small shortbread cakes filled with the dough for Culurgiones: potatoes, feta cheese and mint.
Typical of Ogliastra, they also come in a version with Fiscidu (fresh sour cheese) instead of pecorino. Included in all refreshments.
Another, completely different version of Coccoi is Coccoi de Corcoriga. This is a kind of pizza with pumpkin dough: a dish from poor Sardinian cuisine, where a soft dough is made from pumpkin, onion and tomato.
Baked in the oven, it is somewhere between an omelette and a farinata. The word Coccoi generally refers to a rustic bread that comes in many forms - including Coccoi a pitzus: an ornate bread made from durum wheat semolina.
Albergo La Lanterna nel Bosco, in Perdasdefogu (in Santa Barbara). Tel. +39338 272 5132
There are a few B&Bs in the village.
The starting point is reachable by car (the last few kilometres are on a dirt road).
The starting point is NOT reachable by bus.
The nearest location that can be reached by bus is Escalaplano, starting from the city of Cagliari.
Here is the LINK to check the timetables.
The starting point is NOT reachable by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
