A short stage without major attractions, with several sections on asphalt.
The highlight of the day is the Agriturismo Lu Furracu, a place with a magical atmosphere run by wonderful people.
A stage to avoid in the height of summer.
No water points, bring a good supply.
We leave Luogosanto and continue west on the flat provincial road. After a few kilometres, we turn left onto a secondary road (still asphalted); after reaching a car park (from which we can reach the Castello Nuragico di Baldu), we cross a fence with the help of a ladder and continue along an old dirt track, partly overgrown with vegetation. We lose height (about 200 m drop) and reach the bottom of the valley, where we cross the a-road and continue walking uphill and downhill until we come across another asphalt road, which we follow northwards for several kilometres.
After passing the hamlet of Camporotondo, we turn left onto a dirt road and head slightly uphill towards a ridge. On our left we find the signs for the Lu Furracu agritourism run by Andrea and Marta - wonderful people that have lots of anecdotes to tell.
Lu stazzu (like Lu Furracu) is a typical rural structure of Gallura: a real outpost in a sparsely populated area. It is a type of settlement (which also exists in other areas of Italy) that served as a shelter for shepherds (the term stazzu means “resting place”), which in Gallura acquires a sedentary character.
The particular history of the Stazzi of Gallura is linked to nearby Corsica: in the 18th century, Corsican exiles brought the custom to the region. The Stazzi of Gallura were agricultural buildings characterised by their rectangular structure in granite, almost always confined to the ground floor and inhabited by one or more families.
Lu Ferracu has a very special story: Andrea, a Roman of Sardinian origin, after spending twelve years in solitude on the island of Spargi, decided to move to the centre of Gallura with his partner from Friuli, Marta. Before starting the renovation work, they visited all the neighbouring stazzi to see how best to preserve the original features. Their hard work and the family they brought to life make Lu Furracu a special place.
A little curiosity: the Stazzo Lu Furracu is located in Bassacutena, an exclave (place outside the municipal boundary) of the municipality of Tempio Pausania, a good 27 km away! The history of this district has Giuseppe Garibaldi as its protagonist: it was he who decided to have the Tempio Pausania - Palau road pass by here, which helped the area to prosper. Not far away is the Stazzo, belonging to the family of Pietro Pilosu, the hero of two worlds was bound by a deep friendship.
In the hamlet of Bassacutena is the country church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie: it is one of the many churches scattered throughout Gallura, characterised by the use of granite, which is abundant throughout the region. Their construction is usually linked to a vow made by the faithful. Even today, patronal feasts are celebrated in these small churches.
Among the beautiful beaches on the entire northern coast of Sardinia, that of Rene Majore di Aglientu is only 10 km from Lu Ferracu. A wide sandy beach characterised by white dunes and crystal clear waters.
A typical dish of Gallura are the Puligioni, ravioli filled with ricotta cheese, sugar and citrus peel. The sweet and sour taste of the filling makes an interesting contrast with the tomato sauce, enriched with the ubiquitous Sardinian pecorino cheese.
The presence of sugar or honey in Sardinian savoury dishes is a fairly common feature.
Agriturismo Lu Furracu, about halfway throught the stage. Tel. +39333 485 5451
“Of all the welcomes we received, the one from Marta and Andrea de Lu Furracu will stay with us forever: a rare place and very rare people”The starting point is accessible by car.
The starting point can be reached by bus, starting from the city of Olbia.
Here is the LINK to check the timetable.
The starting point is NOT accessible by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
