This is a stage not to be underestimated, with an important climb that takes us to the top of Monte Tuttavista (806 m): the name does not betray expectations!
The beautiful village of Irgoli, with its characteristic historic centre, also deserves a mention.
A stage you should avoid in the middle summer months.
The climb to Monte Tuttavista requires good training; it is also advisable to start early to take advantage of the cooler hours.
The only water point is in Galtellì, at the end of the descent: take a good supply with you.
We leave the village of Orosei on an asphalted road and then turn right onto a dirt road, which we follow for about 1 km. After passing through a lattice gate, we take a path and begin the first climb (about 100 m height difference), after which we can rest on a beautiful flat section at the foot of large reddish walls where we can see the Grotta di Conca Ruja.
At the end of the flat section, we lose some altitude and then begin the long climb (about 600 m height difference) to Monte Bellavista. The path, which runs along the ridge, soon begins to drag, between rocky steps and sometimes invasive vegetation: we have to gauge our energy and sharpen our eyesight to catch sight of the little stone cairns. When we reach Punta Fragaida (552 m), we barely lose altitude and then start climbing again until we reach Punta Conca Niedda (718 m), marked by a forestry observation hut. From there we continue for a short stretch on an asphalt road, then we return to the path and climb up to the large crucifix on the summit of Monte Bellavista (806 m), from where we enjoy a splendid view of the Orosei coast, the long Montalbo ridge and Monte Corrasi.
So we start a long descent (about 700 m drop) on a fairly steep path, but without any particular difficulties. From the path we change to a road and continue nimbly until we reach the beautiful old town of Galtellì with its simple and clean houses. After the village, we continue on asphalt and cross the Cedrino river (one of the few Sardinian rivers that has water all year round), after which we turn right and follow its course. At the crossroads with the Riu Santa Maria, we turn left and soon reach the centre of Irgoli.
Typical of Irgoli is su ballu brincu, also known as “jump dance”.
Typically accompanied by an accordion, the dancers hold hands or arm in arm and form a circle that turns clockwise with a bouncing rhythm that follows the music. Different steps accompany the movements and characteristic of the dance is the peculiarity between the upper body (rigid) and the lower body (very agile).
The Festival Internazionale dell'Organetto (International Festival of Organetto) has been held in Irgoli since 1986, an occasion where different musical styles from Sardinia and beyond meet.
It was created by Totore Chessa together with the local Pro Loco and has become an important moment in the town, making Irgoli a sort of organ capital. The festival displays a large collection of bellows instruments from the late 19th century to the present.
Irgoli is located in the Baronia sub-region, a historical-geographical area between Barbagia and Ogliastra.
The highest peak of Baronia is Montalbo (“Monte Bianco”); the most important rivers are the Cedrino and the Rio Posada - the latter, together with the Montalbo, borders the Regional Natural Park of the Oasis of Tepilora.
Along the alleys of Irgoli you can admire numerous murals - there are more than 150!
Some were created by three local muralists: Pina Monne, Nicoletta Congiu (also a painter) and Francesca Vacca. The artistic initiatives began in the 1990s. Unlike the better-known murals of Orgosolo, which depict struggles and internationalism, the recurring themes here are those of everyday city life.
In nearby Galtellì is the Parco Letterario di Grazia Deledda.
Inaugurated in 1996, the park allows visitors to walk in the footsteps of Canne al Vento, a novel set in Galtellì that won the writer the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1926 - making her the only Italian to win the coveted award.
The writer, who came from Nuoro, staged the essence of the Sardinian character amid archaic norms, repentance and penitence in the glimpses of the village. Places from the novel can be found in the village, such as the “single-storey house” of Dame Pintor, visited by the writer's family, or the house of Uncle Crobeddu, Dame Pintor’s rich cousin.
Do not miss the “local lunch” offered by the guys from the True Sardina association - a typical Sardinian lunch accompanied by wine and music in a beautiful country house.
These very nice guys offer tourists an authentic experience amidst the beauty of Irgoli and its surroundings.
The former premises of the Salumificio Murru are now home to the birrificio agricolo Marduk (Marduk agricultural brewery).
Marduk, a Sumerian-Babylonian deity, originates from the geographical area and historical period in which the beer was created. With its four arms and four eyes, it is the symbol of the brewery. The four eyes of the deity look into the distance... as does the brewery: almost all the ingredients are grown within a radius of 10 km; the water comes from a spring in Su Gologone. Hops are the only material purchased, but here too the owners work to be self-sufficient.
The brewery offers six beers all year round, plus a few seasonal beers. Sexy Pompia is the beer made from the peel of the pompia, an ancient citrus fruit that grows in the Cedrino Valley.
Agriturismo Piperedda, in Sauccu Nieddu (2 km north of Irgoli). Tel. +39333 840 0836
There are several accommodation options in Irgoli.
The starting point is accessible by car.
The starting point can be reached by bus, starting from the city of Nuoro.
Here is the LINK to check the timetable.
The starting point is NOT accessible by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
