We end the crossing of the Ogliastra with a demanding stage in the heart of the Gennargentu, but with unique views: we climb to the top of Punta La Marmora (1,833 m), the highest peak in Sardinia.
A stage you should avoid in the height of summer (there is no shade for almost the entire stage).
Due to the differences in altitude (without shade) and the difficulties of orientation, this stage is reserved for the most experienced hikers.
The first part of the route, especially before Monte Terralba, is without a real path on the ground and without signposts: you need experience to find your way by eye and intuition, picking your way through the (low) vegetation and trying to spot the small cairns (where present); the same problem arises in the last section of the route, immediately after crossing the asphalt road - fortunately and in any case, the direction remains essentially intuitive.
Due to the long ascent, it is advisable to set off very early, preferably before sunrise.
We leave the Terra Ona farmstead and continue for 1 km on the road halfway up the slope, then take the turning to the right and begin the first long climb (about 500 m height difference); after a first stretch on a dirt road, we change to a small path and, after crossing the Riu Accu Pilurzu, we start walking on a steep path that is sometimes swallowed up by the vegetation - we have to walk by feel and sharpen our eyes to spot a cairn or a path on the often uneven ground. Eventually the gradient decreases and we reach the first peak of the Gennargentu massif, Monte Terralba (1,550 m). From here we go gently up and down a very airy ridge, trying to follow as far as possible the path lined on both sides by small boulders. After a few kilometres we tackle the second part of the climb (about 300 m D+), which is less steep than the first: with difficulty we reach the summit of Punta La Marmora (1,833 m), the highest peak of Gennargentu and of the whole island, surmounted by a large metal cross: the view is simply magical and wide, from the nearby Perda Liana to the sea of Ogliastra...
From the summit, the path is finally free and flowing: we continue along the ridge, slowly losing altitude (about 200 m drop), until we reach a wide saddle, from which it goes gently up and down (on this crossing we meet the first trees and the first well). After a few kilometres we come across an asphalt road, but we do not take it (unless we are tired, in which case we continue on it until we reach our destination). From the esplanade, we take the small path that descends steeply (about 200 m drop) and often gets lost in the vegetation, so we have to walk by feel until we come across a road. We follow it to the left on the plain and gradually enter the forest (we come across numerous springs), then we tackle the last climb (about 200 m height difference) over wide hairpin bends; after reaching the asphalt road, we continue for the last few hundred metres until we reach the small road that leads to the agriturismo.
The Gennargentu is the highest massif in Sardinia. Its name means “silver gate” in Sardinian, after the colour that the mountain relief, characterised by slate rock, takes on.
Its peaks, stretching from northwest to southeast, are characterised by their rounded shapes and form a huge “roof” in the centre of the Island. A place where shepherds have always brought their flocks to graze. This practise severely damaged the bushes, which contributed to the appearance of erosion phenomena.
Today, 70 shepherds still live on Gennargentu: there have been numerous disputes between those who argue that the place should be preserved from a naturalistic point of view (in particular the Gulf of Orosei and the Gennargentu National Park, which was created in 1998 but has never really been put into operation) and the shepherds who consider these pastures a right.
Among the native animals, the presence of the mouflon and the golden eagle is highlighted.
The highest peak of the Gennargentu massif is Punta La Marmora, called Perda Crapias - “split stone” - in the Sardinian language.
It is located between the municipalities of Arzana and Desulo and, at an altitude of 1,833 metres, is the highest peak on the island. It is dedicated to Alberto Ferrero della Marmora, a general and scientist who described the wonders of Sardinia in two scientific-literary works: Voyage en Sardaigne, from 1826 and Itinéraire de l'île de Sardaigne, from 1860.
From the rounded summit, on a clear day, you can see almost the entire island and part of Corsica.
The emblematic product of Sardinia is the Pecorino Sardo, made from the milk of Sardinian sheep. It is available mild, slightly matured (1/2 month) or matured (over two months). It is produced all over the island and is one of the symbols of the shepherd's craft.
The taste of Sardinian pecorino differs from that of many pecorino cheeses from Italy thanks to the pastures rich in aromatic shrubs typical of the Mediterranean scrub. Pecorino, which is protected by the Protected Designation of Origin, suffers from commercial devaluation that makes the shepherds' work unprofitable; often the milk produced in Sardinia is used to make other pecorinos on the continent.
Agriturismo Separadorgiu, 3 km north of the Gennargentu ski slopes. Tel. +39346 606 6204
The starting point is reachable by car.
The starting point is NOT reachable by bus.
The nearest location that can be reached by bus is Villanova Strisaili, starting from the city of Nuoro.
Here is the LINK to check the timetables.
The starting point is NOT reachable by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
